Paper shims inserted at pointer after removing a bit more material on I realized I needed to move the cutter further towards center of the hole, so I chiseled a bit away and added some paper shims to tighten the cutter in place. I also used the weekend to think about the cutter position. I cheated a bit here, using a Dremel tool to help out with grinding and stropping.
#KNIFE ADJUSTMENT SCREW 450VS PAPER CUTTER HOW TO#
I used his suggestions for how to sharpen my cutter. In particular, two videos by Paul Hamler really helped me: "Cutting Wooden Threads" and "Sharpening a V-Gouge". I consulted what videos I could find and got back to it on Monday. I could cut part of a thread and then it would get bogged down.įrustrated again, I put it down for the weekend. As I twisted the screw blank into the screw box, the threads being cut would not engage the inside threads of the block. Relieved a little material from the alignment plate.Īt this point I tried cutting some threads, but ran into problems again. To fit a 1 1/4" screw blank in this block, need to cut away this first threadĭue to the shims, the cutter was a bit proud of the surface of the block. To in-line with the tip of the inside wooden thread as possible.Īdded some card stock shims to the bottom of the mortise. The tip of the cutter needs to be as close Pic shows the tools used, including impromptu 1/8" router plane. See the progression below.Ĭhopped the mortise. You've got to get the tip a little further towards the center. I found you can't locate the tip of the cutter right in line with the tips of those inside threads. See next pic for how that came out.Ĭlamped a square up through the threaded block to help locate the cutter mortise.Īnd here's the problem. You can barely see the markings on the sideįor material to be removed. File a 30°Īngle on the front end and lay out center lines top and bottom.
Start with 3/8" x 1/4" x 1 1/2" piece of O-1 steel.
In two directions to help center the holes when boring and to help align them in use. This blank and a 6" x 3" x 1" cover/alignment plate have centerlines knifed (or gauged) When satisfied, cut inside threads in a squared-up 6" x 3" x 1 1/2" blank. But I had made a screw using a chisel (shown in first pic, above) and it turned out to be a really good thing for testing purposes. I know, this is a bit of a chicken and egg kind of thing. It's good to have a screw already prepared to test that you've cut away enough material in the nut for it to work with a screw. It'll be done when there are no more flats. Those stand-off blocks give a little spaceīetween the nut blank and the tap block to allow chip ejection. Insert a shaped piece of metal so it shows inside the hole.ĭouble-side tape a couple of stand-off blocks to the entry side of the block. The kerf through the block is cut along the lower left and upper right corners of the rectangle described by those two pencil lines and the two vertical knife lines 3 1/8" apart. The horizontal pencil lines in the above pic include a centerline for the block and two lines each 3/16 from that center, making those two lines 3/8" from each other. Then from the vertical centerline, mark two lines equidistantįrom center so they are separated by the circumference of the 1" hole (about 3 1/8") Square up a block and knife lines around vertically and horizontally to One way to obtain the angle that needs to be cut in the block In the benchtop bungee lathe to make this easier. I wrapped a piece of clear flexible plastic around to help connect the lines.Ĭut the 1/8" deep kerf on the laid out spiral. Make the blank round (I used planes, spokeshaves, scrapers), leaving the knifed layout linesĬonnect the layout lines with a pencil line. Make a mortise for the 1/4" x 1/8" cutter and its wedge. Square up a 1" blank and lay out lines for threads at 3/8" pitch. This results in a screw with a flat on the top of each thread. The pitch is 3/8" and the angle between threads is 90°. This time I'm making a screw with major diameter 1 1/4" and minor (root) diameter 1". I apologize if I've left out some details (posts from May and June 2021 have more details). I'll go through the process here, including the making of the nut even though I've shown that before. The secret is two-fold: sharpen the cutter properly and get it in the right position.įirst successful screw using a screw-box (top), with one made using a chisel and files
I'd been close before, but I finally got it this time. The hard part for me was making a screw-box. The screws aren't too bad either, if you use a chisel and have a lot of time and patience. It seems counter-intuitive to me, but the nuts are far easier to make. There are many YouTube videos that show electric powered machines making them, but I'm much more interested in how it was done a couple centuries ago. I've written before about making wooden nuts and screws with hand tools.
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